
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 


























































































PORTER ON DYEING. 


-<»*►- 

BEIFG .A. 

PRACTICAL GUIDE 


TO THE PRODUCTION OF THE 


Standard Shades of Color 


■ ON 


Wool, Wool en Goods, Cotton & Silk Goods, 

i fa. 1 

K‘ K 


WITH DIRECTIONS FOR 


Scouring Wool and the Removal of 
Grease Spots and Stains. 




i 


By G. A. PORTER, 







Entered according to Act of Congress in the Year 1881, 

By G. A. PORTER, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Introduction .... 5 

Certificate ----- 8 

Theory and Practice of Wool Scouring’ - 9 

Manual Operations in Dyeing - - 12 

Manner of Setting a Blue Yat - - 14 

Coloring— 

Shades of Blue - - - - IT 

Shades of Yellow - - - - 19 

Shades of Bed - - - - 21 

Shades of Plum 25 

Shades of Olive - 30 

Shades of- Brown - - - - 32 

Minor Shades of Brown 38 

Shades of Violet and Purple - - 42 

Shades of Black 46 

Minor Shades of Olive and Drab - 49-51 

Shades of Buff 55 

Shades of Green - - - - 57 

Table of Mixtures - - - 63 



IV. 


Coloring-— 

Remarks on'Coloring Clouded or Spotted Yarn 07 


Muriate of Tin - - 69 

Durable Colors on Cotton— 

Black - - - - - 71 

Sky Blue.72 

Blue on Cotton - - • - 73 

Yellow - - * - 73 

Gree\i ----- 74 

Orange - - - - 74 

Shades of Brown - - - - 76 

Shades of Drab - - - - 79 

Removal of Stains and Grease Spots - 85 

Memoranda 98 





INTRODUCTION. 


In bringing a work of this character before 
the public, the Author begs leave to state, on 
the outset, a few of the reasons that have 
influenced him, believing that no person should 
undertake to produce a book on so difficult and 
particular a subject as that of dyeing, without 
being able to give good and satisfactory reasons 
for so doing. First, then, experience, which is 
the best of ' all schools, extending through a 
period of thirty-five years, has enabled him to 
thoroughly test each and every one of these 
recipes and formula, to retain the reliable and 
to reject the unreliable, and to add, from time 
to time, through his long connection with the 
work, only such recipes as have stood the test 
of time and ripened experience. Second, owing 
to the advancement in the arts and sciences, 



VI. 


many new and valuable coloring principles and 
processes have come into use, crowding out the 
old time processes and rendering many of them 
obsolete, so that the Dyer, to keep up with 
times, must necessarily reject many old theories 
and substitute such new facts in the science as 
have been proven by practical use. 

Third, many of the so-called Dye books are 
merely the advertisements of the manufacturers 
of colors, and do not pretend to give any 
formula for coloring but those calling for their 
particular productions. 

Fourth, it is well known that manv valuable 
recipes and processes in this, as well as in other 
arts, are lost to the world from the failure of 
their authors to put them in permanent form. 
Appreciating this fact, the Author, after having 
been obliged to quit the trade on account of 
failing eyesight, and unwilling that his discov¬ 
eries and experience should be lost to the world, 
noAv puts them in permanent form before the 
people. 


Vll. 


The Author hopes then, and confidently ex¬ 
pects, that by publishing a work of this kind, 
gotten up in plain language, and divested of all 
technicalities, to meet the wants of a large 
class of practical dyers, and also of families, 
who may want a plain and safe guide to the 
proper production of the standard shades of 
color, and trusts to the practical good sense of 
this large class of people for a proper appre¬ 
ciation of, and remuneration for his labor. 




Vlll. 


To all Whom it may Concern: 

We, the undersigned Stockholders of the 
Auburn Woolen Manufacturing Company, having 
had G. A. Porter in our employ for several 
years, do hereby certify to his thorough relia¬ 
bility in matters pertaining to the subject of 
dyeing, and cheerfully recommend him to the 
confidence of all who may seek for trustworthy 
information in that art. 

Signed , 

C. Sheets, 

T. D. Gross, 

L. Bowers, 

S. W. Sprott, 

. S. Kutzner. 


9 


THEORY AND PRACTICE OF 
WOOL SCOURING. 


The first operation connected with Dyeing is to 
divest the wool of a greasy or fatty matter which 
envelopes the fibre, which operation is performed 
as follows: A kettle, holding about 20 gallons of 
liquor, is a convenient size for scouring from 5 
pounds at first, and not more than 8 pounds after 
ward, but a vessel of any other dimensions will 
answer. To commence with setting a fresh scour, 
you have to put into this kettle 15 gallons of soft 
water and 4 gallons of stale urine. Heat up so 
that you can barely hold your hand in the liquor, 
enter the above quantity (5 pounds), work it well 
with the stick, so as to have every fibre exposed to 
the action of the liquor, and after about fifteen 
minutes’ immersion, heave it on to the rack to 
drain; then enter another similar quantity, and 
proceed as before; take this out, and enter a third 



10 


quantity ; heave out and drain this a short time, 
then throw it into the wash-box and commence 
rinsing. The two former kettlefuls now return 
into the liquor again, so that the one which was 
steeped the first may go into the kettle after the 
other two. The reason for thus returning the two 
first scourings into the kettle again, before rinsing, 
is because the scour liquor is not in a fit state to 
dissolve or render soluble the fatty substance 
adhering to the wool, until after the third or fourth 
scour—in other words, there requires to be formed 
a species of ammoniacal soap-liquor, before the 
grease becomes sufficiently loosened to wash clean 
and effectually from the wool. Rinse these two 
scourings, in succession, after the first, and proceed 
in same manner to scour and rinse kettle after 
kettleful. 

About three times running off and on the water 
is sufficient to rinse it, but whether more or less is 
required, take care to have all the suds effectually 
washed out of the wool, which is known by the 
last box full of water being clear and free from anv 
soapy appearance, then throw out the wool to drain. 
If it be properly cleaned it will exhibit the following 
characteristics : it will drain quickly, and, as the 


11 


water leaves it, begin to spring and swell gently up; 
it will look bright and white, and have a glistening 
appearance when seen by transmitted light; on 
taking it up in the hands it feels light and lofty; 
on shaking it over it readily parts asunder, falling 
lightly and featlier-like; it leaves no stickiness upon 
the hands, and it smells sweet, having no scent of 
the sheep or grease about it. On the contrary, if 
the wool be badly scoured, or set in the grease, 
while it is yet in the wash-box, it will cling together 
more heavily, and feel weighty on the stick; on 
throwing it out, it dries slowly; it clings together 
and cannot be separated; it is clammy and greases 
the hands; it is yellow and dirty looking, and the 
most casual observer will perceive that there has 
been some improper management of it; it will have 
to be rescoured. 




12 


Description of the Manual Opera¬ 
tions required in Dyeing Wool. 


KETTLE COLORS. 

After scouring the wool as detailed, and allowing 
it to drain equally and well until the next day, com¬ 
mence handling it as follows : 


Shake the wool down in front of the kettle, 
breaking out all the hakes and lightening up the 
whole pile; opening it in such a manner as to sepa¬ 
rate all the twisted and hard lumps, so that the 
whole may lay loose and buoyant, which will cause 
it to absorb the color equally and evenly on being 
thrown into the kettle. 

When you have shaken over the wool, run up the 
kettle with water to a proper working height. This 
will check the boiling, and you can enter the wool 
more easily, and it will give it a better chance of 
coloring in an even manner. 


Then take out the bags (if you have a color that 
requires them in), and always bear in mind to rake 
up the kettle well before entering the wool. 









13 


These preliminaries being concluded, let the wool 
be thrown in, expeditiously and loosely, giving it all 
the chance possible for every part to receive an 
equal share of the coloring matter; getting the 
whole under the liquor as quick as you can accom¬ 
plish it. 

Everything to be dyed, whether wool or goods, 
cotton or silk, should be perfectly clean, as well as 
all vessels used. Goods should be well scoured in 
soap, and the soap well rinsed out. It is also well 
to dip the cotton goods into warm water before 
putting into the preparation. Soft water should 
always be used, and enough to cover the goods well 
As soon as an article is dyed, it should be aired a 
little, then hung up to dry. 

Do not wring silk or merino goods, as it wrinkles 
and breaks the fibre. Shawls should be hung up by 
the edge, so as to dry evenly. 





MANNER OF SETTING A BLUE 

VAT. 


For a vat six or seven feet deep, and six feet in 
diameter, proceed as follows: 

Fill this vessel with water to within six or eight 
inches of the edge, and heat it to 170 or 180 degrees. 
Throw into this water 20 lbs. Potash, or in its place 
25 lbs. Pearlash, 25 quarts Wheat Bran, 12J lbs. 
Crop Madder, and 15 lbs. Bengal Indigo. Give 
these ingredients a good raking until all are fairly 
dissolved and well mixed. Let this process be com¬ 
pleted by four o’clock in the afternoon, and cover 
up the vat for the night. By six or eight o’clock in 
the morning it ought to exhibit signs of springing, 
and you may rake it up and iet it rest until evening, 
then rake up again and cover up for the night. 

On the following day try a lock of wool, and if 
this comes out a poor looking green, and turns, in 
the course of a minute or two, to a greyish blue— 
the liquor at the same time looking of a dark blueish 




15 


green—it shows the want of a greater fermenting 
force. Give it a “ beer, 7 ’ as follows: 

Take about 30 gals, of Water, or you may take 
the same quantity of liquor out of the vat, into a 
small kettle; put into it 5 qts. of Bran, or 3 lbs. of 
Hops, 2 qts. Molasses, and boil one hour, taking care 
not to boil over. 

How cool, and add 2 lbs. Madder, and, when all 
have settled, turn the whole into the vat, and rake 
up well—in the evening rake again, when next 
morning it should be ready for coloring in. 

But if, in the first instance, the trial sample comes 
out a tolerable green, and takes three or four 
minutes to pass to a blue—even if this should not 
be so good a shade as you expected—it shows that 
the materials are rightly proportioned, and only 
want more time to produce the full effect. You will 
now rake up- well, repeat the same in the evening, 
and next morning commence your coloring, keeping 
your heat at 135 degrees. 

There is another mode of Dyeing Indigo Blue by 
a vat, the liquor of which is all stale urine (no 
matter of what size the vessel); into this is put a 
sufficient quantity of Indigo to bring it to the usual 
strength of Blue Yats; with an equal quantity of 
Alum and Tartar, and a small quantity of Madder 
and Bran. 


] G 


This is kept at a temperature of about 100 degrees, 
when it naturally ferments in a few days, and the 
Ammonia serves as a solvent for the deoxydized 
Indigo. 

Wool steeped in this from twenty-four to forty- 
eight hours, becomes colored of a tolerable light 
blue. 

This Vat is only adapted to very small Dyeing 
establishments, and cannot be used for manufac¬ 
turing purposes. 


17 


« 


COLORING. 


SHADES OF BLUE. 


For 50 lbs. Wool. 

Prepare with Alum, 3 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, £ lb. 

Oxalic Acid, 2 -J lbs. 

Enter the Wool; simmer three hours, stirring up 
occasionally. Heave out Wool, and add 7 lbs. Log¬ 
wood Chips, in bags; boil two hours; heave out 
bags, cool off and add to the liquor J pint Muriatic 
Acid, j pint Carbonate of Ammonia; stir up well, 
and add wool and simmer three hours. 

This is a beautiful color, but for W 09 I only. 


NICHOLSON BLUE. 

Dissolve, say 1 lb. of color (Nicholson’s Blue), in 
10 gals, of water, and boil for fifteen or twenty 





18 


minutes; add the dye to a bath made alkaline with 
Sal Soda or Borax (same weight as color used). In 
piece or skein dyeing, add the solution gradually 
to the bath. Enter the goods at 120 degrees, and 
work up slowly to just below the boil, keeping it 
there from twenty to thirty minutes, according to 
the shade required ; take out the goods, and wash 
well in cold water. Afterwards develop the color in 
a bath, slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, and 
wash again in cold water. If the first bath is suffi¬ 
ciently alkaline, the dyed material will come out 
nearly colorless, or pale blue, but is at once sprung 
into a bright, fast blue, bv immersion in the acidu- 
lated bath. But on no account must the acid be put 
into the same bath with the color. In working this 
color for the first time, more color is required than 
for the subsequent baths; for instance, if you start 
a bath with three pounds of color, the material to 
be dyed will not take up much more than two 
pounds, but. the addition of two pounds of color 
and two pounds of alkali, to the second bath, will 
give the same result as the first with three pounds. 

As the bath cannot be exhausted it should be 
saved until again wanted, or the color may be pre¬ 
cipitated with sulphuric acid. 


19 


SHADES OF YELLOW. 




FUSTIC YELLOW. 

For 25 lbs. of Wool or Goods. 

Fustic, lbs. 

Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 

Alum, 1J lbs. 

Murio-Sulphate of Tin, 10 oz. 
Simmer slowly one hour. 


sulphur. 

Quercitron Bark, 10 oz. 

Alum, 10 oz. 

Cream Tartar,' 1 £ lbs. 

Sulpho-Muriate of Tin, 10 oz. 

Use all these together, with the addition of a 
very little Sulphate of Indigo, merely to give the 
peculiar tinge of the green due to the color of 
Sulphur. 

Simmer the whole one hour. 







20 


CANARY. 

Quercitron Bark, 1J lbs. 

Alum, 1\ lbs. 

Cream Tartar, £ lb. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 10 oz. 

A little Sulphate of Indigo may be used in this 
shade also. Use all the articles together, and 
handle the Wool in them for one hour, at 200 
degrees, or at a simmering heat. 


BARK YELLOW. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Quercitron Bark, 3J lbs. 

Alum, J lb. 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Muriate of Tin, 10 oz. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, \ lb. 

Use all these together, and give an hours gentle 
boil to the wool or goods. 

In coloring all the finer shades of yellow, etc., 
with bark, be careful not to boil the article; but 
rather simmer, or stew it. A boil, or ebullition, 
extracts too much tannin from the bark to answer 



21 


the purpose of dyeing. We want for the production 
of colors, what I have called the “ coloring prin¬ 
ciple” only. 


BARK GOLD COLOR. 

Quercitron Bark, lbs. 

Alum, 1J lbs. 

Cream Tartar, 1J lbs. 
Murio-Sulphate of Tin, 2J lbs. 

Simmer one hour. 


SHADES OF BED. 


PINK. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, f pt. 

Alum, f lb. 

Cream Tartar, f lb. 

Cochineal, f lb. 

When these articles are all thoroughly dissolved, 

enter the Wool, and simmer an hour or an hour and 

2 






22 


a-half, and let it be washed off the same day—which 
course adopt with all colors having a mordant com¬ 
posed as above. You will also make a paste of the 
Cochineal (that is an ammoniated Cochineal) for all 
those colors which have the pink or crimson hue to 
them. This paste is made by digesting Cochineal 
with about an equal weight of Aqua Ammonia for 
twenty-four hours, or longer, before using it. 


ROSE. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 1 pint. 
Alum, 1 lb. 

Cream Tartar, 1 lb. 
Cochineal, If lbs. 

Simmer the goods one hour. 


GERANIUM. 


Preparation— 

Alum, 10 oz. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 10 oz. 
Cream Tartar, 2f lbs. 
Cochineal, If lbs. 




23 


Simmer one half hour; take out, and wash off. 

Darkening color: Bring a bath of fresh water to 
a simmer, and dissolve in it \ lb. of Soda and J lb. 
of Muriate of Ammonia. Work the Wool in this 
for one half an hour, or until you are satisfied with 
the color. 


PEACH WOOD CRIMSON. 

Alum, 3£ lbs. 

Cream of Tartar, £ lb. 

Blue Yitriol, \ lb. 

Simmer two hours and a-half, and leave in the 
kettle all night. 

Darkening—fresh bath. 

Hypernic or PeachWood, 12£ lbs. 

Cool off; enter the Wool, and bring to a gentle 
boil. 


. scarlet. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Cochineal, 2-J lbs. 

Oxalic Acid, 12^ oz. 

Muriate of Tin (Crystals), 12£ oz. 
Flavine, 2 oz. 




24 


Put dye stuff all together and boil fifteen or 
twenty minutes; cool off with cold water; enter 
goods, and run forty minutes. 


MADDER RED. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Alum, PJ lbs. 

Cream Tartar, f lb. 

Muriate of Tin, 7-J- oz. 

Run hours; take out the goods; rinse goods 
and kettle. 

Fresh bath—Fill the kettle, add lbs. Madder; 
let simmer slow for two hours, then run or handle 
vour goods until dark enough to suit. 


MUNJEET RED. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, 5 lbs. 

Super-Tartartrate Potash (or Argol), 
li lbs. 

Simmer two and a-half hours, and let the goods 
remain in the liquor all night. In the morning 
wash thoroughly. 




25 


Darken with fresh bath— 

Munjeet, lbs. 

Muriate of Tin, 10 oz. 

Enter the Wool, and let it be well handled until 
near a boil, which continue for about ten minutes, 
then take out and wash. 

By adding 1J- lbs. Ilypernic Wood, you will 
obtain a more brilliant color. 

In dyeing the whole of this order of colors, much 
of the effect depends upon cleanliness, and taking- 
care to have all the solutions clear and limpid; the 
Alum, etc., as well as the rest of the dyestuffs, of a 
good quality, and free from dirt or mixture of other 
materials. After dyeing, let them be washed off 
and dried in the open air, with the exception of the 
wood colors, which are better if dried in the shade. 


SHADES OF PLUM. 


LEAD. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Logwood, 2L lbs. 
Alum, f> oz. 
Copperas, 9 oz. 




26 


Simmer one hour. 

Another method is to take the above quantity of 
Logwood ; boil one half hour; then darken as in 

o y 

the recipe, with half an hour’s boil. 


ANOTHER LEAD. 

Logwood, 2J lbs. 

Camwood, f lb. 

Boil or simmer one and a-half hours ; then darken 
with lb. Copperas, and half an hour’s boil. 


SLATE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Logwood, 8 lbs. 

Sumac, i lb. 

Fustic, ^ lb. 

Madder, ^ lb. 

Simmer one and a-half hours; then darken with 
i lb Copperas, and half an hour’s gentle boil. 




27 


DRAB SLATE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Logwood, 4 lbs. 

Camwood, -J- lb. 

Simmer one and a-half hours; then darken with 
1 lb. Copperas, and three-fourth’s of an hour’s 
gentle boil. 


CLARET. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Camwood, 16 lbs. 
Logwood, 24 lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Blue Vitriol, lbs. 
Copperas, £ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


MULBERRY. 

Color to a middle or light Blue, then wash off 
well. 




28 


Prepare with— 

Camwood, 7 % lbs. 
Hypernic, 2-J lbs. 
Logwood, 1\ lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Blue Vitriol, 1J lbs. 
Copperas, \ lb. 


ADELAIDE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Color to middle or light Blue; then wash well. 

Prepare with— 

Camwood, 4 lbs. 

Hypernic, 1J lbs. 

Logwood, 10 oz. 

Simmer one hour; then raise the Wool, and add 
in the same bath— 

Cochineal, 10 oz. 

Alum, 10 oz. 

• _ 

Cream Tartar, 0 oz. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, % pt. 

Simmer three quarters of an hour. 



29 


PERUVIAN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, 2 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, lb. 

Blue Vitriol, lb. 

Crystalized Muriate of Tin, \ lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

Color with— 

Logwood, 9 lbs. 

ITypernic Wood, 3 lbs. 

Madder, 3 lbs. 

Simmer three-fourths of an hour; then darken 
with J lb. Blue Vitriol, and half an hour’s gentle 
boil. 


PLUM. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Camwood, 5 lbs. 
Logwood, 7-J- lbs. 


Simmer half an hour. 



30 


Darken with— 

Copperas, f lb. 
Blue Vitriol, f lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


SHADES OF OLIVE. 


For 25 lbs. of Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 18 lbs. 
Madder, 1J lbs. 
Logwood, 10 oz. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, i lb. 

Blue Vitriol, J lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


GREEN OLIVE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 
Prepare with— 





31 


Fustic, 8 lbs. 
Logwood, 5 lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 
Darken with— 

Copperas, 9 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 


CHEOME OLIVE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Bi-Chromate of Potash, 4 lb. 
Alum, J 11). 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with—- 

Fustic, 5 lbs. 

Logwood. 4 lbs. 

Madder, 1J lbs. 

Simmer one hour. 


BROWN OLIVE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 
Prepare with— 




32 


Fustic, 12^ lbs. 
Madder, 3 lbs. 
Logwood, If lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 10 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 


TRUE OLIVE. 

Color to a very pale blue. 

Then prepare with— 

Fustic, 10£ lbs. 
Madder, 2 lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, i lb. 
Blue Vitriol, \ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


SHADES OF BROWN. 


CINNAMON BROWN. 


For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 






33 


Fustic, 1J lbs. 
Camwood, lbs. 
Madder, 2J- lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Blue Vitriol, \ lb. 
Copperas, £ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


golden brown. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 16 lbs. 
Madder, 1^ lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, J lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


SNUFF BROWN. 


For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 




34 


Prepare with— 

Fustic, 124 lbs. 

✓ —■ 

Madder, 2£ lbs. 
Camwood, If lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 6 oz. 

Simmer one hour. 

RUSSEL BROWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 12£ lbs. 
Camwood, 12J lbs. 
Hypernic Wood, 2-J- lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 4 lb. 

Blue Vitriol, -f lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


OHIO BROWN. 


For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 




35 


Prepare with— 

Fustic, 12-J lbs. 
Madder, 3 lbs. 
Camwood, 1J lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, \ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 

OLIVE BROWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 9 lbs. 
Camwood, 4 lbs. 
Madder, 2£ lbs. 
Logwood, | lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

• . 

Copperas, 6 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 

COFFEE BROWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 




3G 


Prepare witli— 

Fustic, 6 lbs. 

Camwood, 6 lbs. 

Madder, 3 lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, £ lb. 

Blue Vitriol, \ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 

CHROME BROWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Prepare with— 

Bi Chromate Potash, £ lb. 
Blue Vitriol, \ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 

Darken with— 

Fustic, 74 lbs. 

Hypernic Wood, 4 lbs. 

Simmer one hour. 


ANOTHER SNUFF BROWN. 


For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 




37 


% 


Camwood, lbs. 

Simmer one hour. Then add— 

Copperas, 2f ibs. 

Simmer one hour; rinse goods; empty kettle; 
then add— 

Fustic, lbs. 

And give two dips, three-quarters of an hour each. 


LONDON BROWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Camwood, 7^ lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

» • 

Darken with— 

Blue Vitriol, 5 oz. 

Oil Vitriol, £ gill. 

Simmer twenty minutes ; then add— 
Copperas, lbs. 

Simmer. 


For 25 lbs. Wool. 

3 


RED BROWN. 




38 


Prepare with— 

Bi-Chromate Potash, 8 oz. 
Cream Tartar, 5 oz. 

Simmer one and a-half hours. 
Darken with— 

Fustic, 10£ lbs. 

Camwood, 5 lbs. 

Madder, 7-J oz. 

Logwood, 9 oz. 

Bun to suit. 


MINOR SHADES OF BROWN. 


SALMON FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 
Fustic, \ lb. 
Camwood, 1 lb. 


Simmer one and a-half hours. 




ANOTHER FAWN. 


Creep Madder, 1 lb. 
Camwood, \ lb. 
Fustic, 10 oz. 

Simmer one hour and a-half. 
Darken with— 

Copperas, 2 oz. 
Simmer half an hour. 


SANDY FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Madder, lb. 
Camwood, ^ lb. 
Fustic, $ lb. 

Simmer one hour and a-half. 
Darken with— 

Copperas, 2 oz. 
Alum, -1 oz. 

Simmer half an hour. 



40 


ESTERHAZEY FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool.. 

Prepare with— 

Cudbear, $ lb. 
Camwood, ^ lb. 

Fustic, £ lb. 

Logwood, 1 oz. 

Simmer one hour and a-half. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 2 oz. 

Simmer half an hour. 


CHOCOLATE FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Prepare with— 

Cudbear, f lb. 
Camwood, 4 oz. 
Fustic, f lb. 

Logwood, 1 oz. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 3 oz. 



41 


Simmer half an hour. 


NUT-SHELL. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Prepare with— 

Madder, 4 oz. 

Fustic, £ lb. 
Camwood, f lb. 

Simmer one and a-half hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 1 oz. 

Half an hour’s slow boil. 


ANILINE PURPLE. 

« 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Silk. 

Aniline (Fed Liquor), \ pint. 

Oil Vitriol, \ oz. 

Indigo Paste, ^ oz. 

Put in your Wool, simmer three-fourths of an 
hour, then take out and rinse. 




42 


SHADES OF VIOLET. 


PUCE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Cudbear, 2 lbs. 
Cream Tartar, 1 lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


LILAC. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, 1J lbs 

Cream Tartar, 5 oz. 

Simmer two hours. 

Dye with— 

«/ 

Hypernic Wood, 1J lbs. 
Logwood, \\ lbs. 

IJrine, 4 gal. 

Simmer one hour. 


LAyENDER. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, If lbs. 





43 


Cream Tartar, £ lb. 
Bi-chromate Potash, J lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

Dye with— 

Logwood, 2 lbs. 

Urine, gal. 

Simmer one hour. 


BLUE VIOLET. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, 2£ lbs. 

Cream Tartar, 6 oz. 
Bichromate Potash, 6 oz. 

Simmer two hours. 

Dye with— 

Logwood, 3 lbs. 
Hypernic Wood, 1 lb. 

Simmer one hour. 




Prepare with— 


PURPLE. 




Alum, 3 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, f lb. 


Simmer two hours, and leave wool in all night; 
next day wash. 

Dye with— 

Hypernic Wood, 4 lbs. 

Logwood, 4 lbs. 

Urine, £ gal. 

• • 
Simmer one hour. 


TYRIAN PURPLE. 

Color to a light blue at one dip, (wash off well,) 
then dye up as follows: 

Cochineal, 2 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 1£ lbs. 

Alum, £ lb. 

* 

Simmer one hour. 


MAZARINE BLUE. 

Color to a light blue at one dip ; wash and dye up 
as follows: 




Logwood, 3 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, -J lb. 

Alum, 2 lbs. 

Simmer in the above three-fourths of an hour. 
Raise the wool and give— 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 1J lbs. 

Return the wool and simmer half an hour; throw 
out and wash. 


FAST WINE COLOR. 

Prepare with— 

Camwood, 15 lbs. 

Logwood, 2£ lbs. 

Simmer two hours; then raise the wool and add 
to the same liquor the following : 

Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 

Blue Yitriol, 10 oz. 

Muriate of Tin, 1J lbs. 

Re-enter the wool; simmer one hour; take out, 
and when cooled well, wash off. 


Prepare with- 


RUliY. 








46 


Alum, 3 lbs. 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Simmer two liours, and leave the wool in all night; 
next day wash off. 

Dve with— 

Hypernic Wood, 8 lbs. 

Logwood, f lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


CHROME PURPLE. 

Prepare with— 

Alum, lbs. 

Cream Tartar, £ lb. 
Bi-Chromate Potash, ^ lb. 

Dye with— 

Logwood, 14 lbs. 

Muriate of Tin, £ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


SHADES OF BLACK. 

’•.i* 


CHROME BLACK, 


% 


Prepare with— 





47 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Alum, ■£■ lb. 

Bi-Chromate Potash, £ lb. 
Simmer one hour and a half. 

Dye with— 

Logwood, 8 lbs. 

Urine, 1 gal. 

Simmer one hour. 


MADDER BLACK. 

Prepare with— 

Madder, 5 lbs. 

Logwood, 5 lbs. 

' Sumac, 2^- lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darkening with— 

Copperas, 2 lbs. 

This black will stand boiling in vinegar for five 
minutes without flinching. 


COMMON BLACK. 


For 16 lbs. Wool or Goods. 




48 


Prepare with— 

Bi-Chromate Potash, \ lb. 
Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Change liquor; rinse goods ; then add— 

Logwood, 6 lbs. 

Sumac, (or Fustic,) lb. 


BLACK. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Bi-Chromate Potash, 10 oz. 

Simmer, with wool, one and a half hours; then 
leave wool in dye four hours. 

Fresh Bath— 

Fustic, 5 oz. 

Logwood, (in bags,) 10 lbs. 

Camwood, 1 lb. 

Simmer two and a half hours; take out bags, and 
add— 

Oil Vitriol, lb., mixed with cold water. 
Stir up and leave at a simmer for four hours. 

This is the true method of coloring avoo! or yarn 




49 


that has to pass through a scarlet dye; also, for 
made up clothes, to prevent crocking. 


SHADES OF OLIVE. 


TEA COLOR. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 18 lbs. 
Madder, 1J lbs. 
Logwood, 10 oz. 

• • 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 4 lb. 
Blue Vitriol, J lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


Prepare with— 




GREEN OLIVE. 





Fustic, 8 lbs. 
Logwood, 5 lbs. 

Simmer two hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 10 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 


CHROME OLIVE. 

Darken with— 

Bi-Chromate Potash, £ lb. 
Alum, \ lb. 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

Prepare with— 

Fustic, 5 lbs. 

Logwood, 4 lbs. 

Madder, 1^ lbs. 


Simmer one hour. 



51 


MINOR SHADES OF OLIYE. 


PEARL DRAB. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Logwood, 6 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 

t 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 2 oz. 
Simmer half an hour. 


SILVER DRAB. 

Fustic, oz. 
Madder, 1 oz. 

Cream Tartar, 4 oz. 
Copperas, £ oz. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 


DRAB. 


Fustic, 6 oz. 
Madder, 6 oz. 





52 


Logwood, 3 oz. 
Sumac, 3 oz. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 
Darken with— 

Alum, £ oz. 
Copperas, oz. 
Simmer half an hour. 


STONE DRAB. 

Catecue, £ lb. 
Logwood, £ oz. 
Simmer one hour. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 3 oz. 
Simmer half an hour. 


BANG UP DRAB. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Fustic, lb. 
Camwood, 2 oz. 






53 


Madder, 1 lb. 
Simmer one hour. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 6 oz. 
Simmer one hour. 


SAGE DRAB. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Logwood, -J- lb. 

Fustic, f lb. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, J lb. 

Blue Vitriol, 2 oz. 
Simmer three-fourths of an hour. 


FAST SAGE. 

First color to a very light blue, and wash; then 
take— 




54 


Fustic, lbs. 

Simmer one hour. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, J lb. 

Blue Yitriol, \ lb. 

« 

Simmer three-fourths of an hour. 


OLIVE DRAB. 

Logwood, 5-J oz. 

Fustic, lbs. 

Madder, f- lb. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, 3 oz. 

Blue Yitriol, 1 oz. 
Simmer three-quarters of an hour. 








55 


SHADES OF HUFF. 


BUFF. 

For 25 lbs. Wool or Goods. 

Cream Tartar, 1-J- lbs. 
Quercitron Bark, \ lb. 
Munjeet, 1 oz. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 1J lbs. 


ANOTHER BUFF. ' 

Cream Tartar, lbs. 

Murio Sulphate of Tin, 1 lb. 
Fustic, 1 lb. 

Munjeet, 2 oz. 


SALMON, OR FLESH COLOR. 


Cream Tartar, f lb. 





56 


Murio Sulphate of Tin, 1J lbs. 
Fustic, ^ lb. 

Lac Dye, 3 oz. 

c/ / 


MELON. 

Quercitron Bark, 10 oz. 
Munjeet, 1J oz. 

Alum, If lbs. 

Nitro-Muriate of Tin, 1£ lbs. 
Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 


OKANOE. 

For 25 lbs. Wool. 

Quercitron Bark, 8J- lbs. 

Madder, f lb. 

Muriate of Tin, 1 pint. 
Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 
Alum, 1-J- lbs. 





57 


SHADES OF GREEN. 


GREEN. 

For 20 lbs. Goods. 

Picric Acid, 1 oz. 

Oil A T itriol, \ oz. 

Run 25 minutes, then add— 

Indigo Compound, 1 gill. 


INDIGO COMPOUND-TO MAKE. 

Sulphuric Acid, 4 lbs. 

Indigo, (ground and sifted,) 1 lb. 


Mix to ferment. Fit for use in 48 hours. 




58 


OLIVE GREEN. 

For 20 lbs. Goods. 

* 

Chrome, 4 lb. 
Hypernic Wood. 4 lbs. 
Fustic, 4 lbs. 


COSSACK GREEN. 

Prepared with— 

Fustic, 10 lbs. 

m 

Madder, If lbs. 
Logwood, If lbs. 
Blue Vitriol, f lb. 

Simmer one hour. 

Darken with— 


Bi-Chromate Potash, 6 oz. 




59 


Alum, J lb. 

Cream Tartar, J lb. 

Simmer two hours. 

This green can be made perfectly fast by running 
in a blue dye. 


RICH FULL GREEN. 

Color up to a light blue, then wash well. 
Color with— 

Fustic, 22 lbs. 

Madder, 2^ lbs. 

Alum, 2-J- lbs. 

Blue Vitriol, £ lb. 

Simmer one hour. 


INVISIBLE GREEN. 

Color up to a light blue, then wash off well. 




60 


Dye with— 

%/ 

Fustic, 24 lbs. 
Logwood, 1J lbs. 

Simmer half an hour. 

Darken with— 

Blue Yitriol, i lb. 
Copperas, J lb. 

Simmer three-fourths of an hour. 


ANOTHER METHOD. 

Color to a middle or light blue, and wash. 

Dye with— 

Madder, 4 lbs. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 

Darken with— 

Copperas, £ lb. 


Simmer one hour. 






61 


BARK GREEN. 

1 

Color to a middle or light blue. 

Quercitron Bark, 3 lbs. 
Alum, 1J lbs. 

Cream Tartar, 10 oz. 

Murio Sulphate Tin, 10 oz. 

Simmer one hour. 



\ 






TABLE OF MIXTURES 


FOR PRODUCING THE DIFFERENT SHADES ON WOOL. 


( 20 White. 

Blue Mix, - -j 

I 80 Middle Blue. 


( 30 Puce. 

Blue Mix, - •< 

( 70 Light Blue. 


Iron Mix, 


^ 33 Light Blue. 
( 67 Black. 


i 9 Lemon Yellow. 

Olive Mix, - a 

( 91 Black. 








64 




( 20 Lemon Yellow. 
Olive Mix, - -< 

( 80 Black. 


Claret Mix, 


( 30 Bright Green. 
( 70 Claret. 


( 15 Yellow. 
Violet Mix, - < 

( 85 Blue Violet. 


( 20 White. 
Violet Mix, - •< 

* ( 80 Blue Violet. 


Silver Gray, 


i 


36 Light Slate. 
36 Purple. 

28 White. 








65 


Purple Mix, - 1 33 Crimson. 


Oxford Mix, 


1 White. 

99f Kich Black. 


f 10 White. 
Black Mix, - < 

I 90 Black. 


I 15 Puce. 

2d Black Mix, 

/ 85 Black. 


Steel Mix, 


j 15 to 30 White. 
| 85 to 70 Black. 






66 



( 70 Middle Green. 

Green Mix, - - 

f 30 Fast Lilac. 


33 White. 
Cadet Mix, - 34 Black. 


33 Blue. 


f 20 Yellow. 
Iris Mix, - - ^ 30 Red. 

I 

[ 50 Blue. 









ON COLORING CLOUDED OR SPOTTED YARN. 


Many dyers have experienced great difficulty from 
having their colors blend, or run together. To ob¬ 
viate this, proceed as follows: 

First scour clean, and rinse 'off in cold water; 
then bleach or dry thoroughly, before knotting. 




69 



MURIATE OF TIN—TO MAKE. 


Muriatic Acid, say 2 lbs. 

Place in a glass jar, and drop into this feathered 
block tin, a tablespoonful or so at a time, but no 
faster than the acid will dissolve, until you have 
added all the block tin which the acid will eat up. 
If the acid be good, it should take up one-half its 
weight of block tin. Fit for use in 2i hours. To 
feather the block tin, proceed as follows: 

Melt the tin in an iron ladle, and pour into a pail 

or tub of cold water, from a height of four or five 

feet; take out and dry, and it will be fit for use. 

5 




71 


DURABLE COLORS OX COTTOX. 

FOR CARPET MATERIAL AND COTTON GOODS GENERALLY. 


BLACK. 


For 25 lbs. Goods. 

Sumac Wood and BarK, 3 lbs. 

Boil one half an hour and let the goods steep 
twelve hours ; then dip them in lime water half an 
hour ; then take out the goods and let them drip an 
hour; now add to the sumac liquor— 

Copperas, 8 oz. 

* \ 

and dip another hour; then run them through the 



72 


tub of lime water again for 15 minutes. Now make 
a new dye with— 

Logwood, 2^ lbs. 

by boiling one hour, and dip again three hours. 
Now add— 

Bi-Chromate of Potash, 2 oz. 

to the logwood dye, and dip one hour. Wash in 
clear cold water and dry in the shade. 

This is a permanent black. 


SKY BLUE. 

For 3 lbs of Goods. : 

Blue Vitriol, 4 oz. 

Boil a few minutes, then dip the goods three 
hours; after which pass them through strong lime 


water. 



73 


1l on can make this color a tine brown by putting 
the goods through a solution of Prussiate of Potash. 


BLUE OX COTTON. 

For 5 lbs. of Goods or Rags. 

♦ 

Copperas, 4 oz. 

Simmer and dip the rags 15 minutes ; then dip m 
strong suds, and back to the dye two or three times; 
then make a new dye with— 

Prussiate of Potash, 1 oz. 

Oil Vitriol, 5 table spoonfuls. 

Simmer thirty minutes, and rinse; then dry in the 
shade. 


For 4 lbs of Goods. 


YELLOW. 




74 


Bi-Chromate of Potash, 3 oz. 

Sugar of Lead, 3 oz. 

Wet the goods in the lead solution, then simmer 
in the solution of bi chromate of potash. 

t 

To change this to green— 


• GREEN. 

Make a dye of— 

Prussian Blue, 1^ oz. 

Dip your yellow rags into the blue dye until the 
color suits. 


ORANGE. 

For 5 lbs. Goods. 

Sugar of Lead, 4 oz. 

Simmer a few minutes, and when a little cool, put 



75 


in the goods, dip two hours and wring out. Make a 
new dye with— 

Bi-Chromate of Potash, 8 oz. 

Madder, 2 oz. 

Dip until the color suits you. 





76 


SHADES OF BROWN. 


CHESTNUT BROWN. 

For 10 lbs. of Goods, to be colored in an iron 
kettle. 

Catechu, 1-J lbs. 

Sal Soda, 1-J lbs. 

Blue Vitriol, 1 oz. 

Simmer one and a half hours. 


SEAL BROWN. 

For 4 lbs. of Goods. 

Catechu, 1 lb. 




77 


Blue Vitriol, 2 oz. 

Simmer two hours; then make a fresh bath with— 
Bi-Chromate Potash, 3 oz. 

Let them remain half an hour. 


LEMON. 

For 25 lbs. of Goods. 

Quercitron Bark, 1^ lbs. 

Blue Vitriol, 1^ lbs. 

Simmer the cotton an hour and a half in this 
liquor, and let it remain in all night. 

Half a pound of glue, dissolved and added to the 
liquor before the blue vitriol is put in, will give a 
greener hue. 



78 


CITRON. 

For 25 lbs. of Cotton Goods. 

Quercitron Bark, f lb. 

Blue Vitriol, f lb. 

When these are dissolved, enter the cotton, and 
get it completely wet as soon as possible ; then stop 
the boiling, and let it lay in the dye as long as the 
color continues to gain brightness and strength. 





SHADES OF DRAP,. 


/ 


RED DRAB. 

For 25 lbs. of Goods. 

* 

Catechu, 5 lbs. 

Blue Yitriol, f lb. 

Copperas, £ lb. 

When these are dissolved, enter the cotton ; boil 

an hour or more, and let it remain all night in the 
dye. 



80 


STONE DRAB. 

For 25 lbs. of Goods. 

Catechu, 3 lbs. 

Logwood, lbs. 

Simmer these together, then add to the liquor— 
Blue Vitriol, 6 oz. 

« 

Enter the cotton; boil gently one hour, and then 
throw on— 

» 

Copperas, 10 to 12 oz. 
previously dissolved in the dyeing liquor. 


SILVER DRAB. 


For 25 lbs. of Goods. 



81 


Catechu, 1-J lbs. 

Copperas, f lb. 

Blue Yitriol, 2 oz. 

Ilematine, 2 oz. 

When these are all dissolved, enter the cotton and 
proceed in the regular manner. 

All these colors from catechu or cutch, become 
fuller and redder with age. 


FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. of Goods. 

Catechu, d lbs. 

Blue Vitriol, 12 oz. 

Simmer the goods in this and let remain in over 



82 


night. In the morning take out and drain, then 
make a fresh bath with— 

Bi-Chromate Potash, 12 oz. 

Enter at a boiling heat, when, after standing two 
hours, it is finished. 


LIGHT FAWN. 

For 25 lbs. of Goods. 

Catechu, lbs. 

Camwood, -J- lb. 

Boil these for one hour, then enter the goods and 
simmer for two hours. In the meantime, dissolve in 
the liquor— 

Blue Vitriol, 8 oz. 

Throw this solution over the cotton by degrees 

O 



83 


t 


whilst simmering; handle well for half an hour and 
leave in liquor over night. 


BRIGHT BUFF. 

Nitro-Muriate of Iron, 1 quart. 

After simmering the cotton in this, as usual, and 
leaving in the liquor all night, take out and drain ; 
shake over, and enter into a fresh bath, as follows: 

Soda Ash, 1-J lbs. 

Quick Lime, 1% lbs. 

(Dissolved in hot water, settled and cleared). Enter 
this liquor at a boiling heat, and after leaving it in 
for an hour, take out, and drain well, and air ; then 
wash off. 





REMOYAL OF STAINS*™GREASE SPOTS 


86 


REMOVAL OF STAINS AND GREASE SPOTS. 


The following shows at a glance the best means of 
cleansing all kinds of fabrics, from any stains what¬ 
ever. 


SUGAR, GLUE, BLOOD AND ALBUMEN. 


From Linen — 

Simply washing with water. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 


Simply washing with water. 






87 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 
Simply washing with water. 


GREASE. 


From Linen — 

Soap Suds, Alkaline Lyes. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 
Lukewarm Soap Suds. 


From Colored Woolen Goods- - 
Soap Suds, Ammonia. 

From Silks -— 

Benzine, Ether, Ammonia, 


Potash, Magnesia, 







88 


Chalk, Yolk of Egg. 


VARNISHES AND OIL PAINTS. 


From Linen — 

Turpentine, or Benzine and Soap. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

i 

0 

Turpentine, or Benzine and Soap. 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 

Turpentine, or Benzine and Soap. 


From Silks — 


Benzine, Ether and Soap. Bub carefully. 







89 


STEARINE. 


Ft 'oin Linen — 

Very strong Alcohol, 95°. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 
Very strong Alcohol, 95°. 


From Colored - Woolen Goods — 
Very strong Alcohol, 95°. 


VEGETABLE COLORS, RED WINE, FRUIT, AND RED INK. 


From Linen — 

Sulphur \ r apors and warm Chlorine Water. 







90 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 


Wash out with warm Soap Suds, or Ammonia 


Water. 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 


Wash out with warm Soap Suds, or Ammonia 


Water. 


From /Silks — 


Wash out with warm Soap Suds, or Ammonu 


Water. Rub gently and carefully. 




91 


ALZARINE INK. 


From Linen — 

Tartaric Acid. The older the stain the stronger 

— / 

the solution. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

Dilute Tartaric Acid, if the stuff will bear it. 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 

Dilute Tartaric Acid, if the stuff will bear it. 


From Silks — 


Dilute Tartaric Acid. With care. 







92 


IRON RUST AND INK MADE FROM GALLS. 


From Linen — 

Warm Oxalic Acid Solution; Dilute Hydro¬ 
chloric Acid, and then Tin Turnings. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

Repeated washings with a solution of Citric 
Acid, if the colors will bear it. 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 

Repeated washings with a solution of Citric 
Acid; Dilute Hydro-Chloric Acid if the wool is 
dyed naturally. 


From /Silks — 

Nothing can be done, and all attempts only 
make it worse. 






93 


TANNIN AND GREEN NUT SHELLS. 


From Linen — 

Javelle Watery warm Chlorine Water, Concen¬ 
trated Solution of Tartaric Acid. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

Alternate washings with water, and with more 
or less Dilute Chlorine Water, according to the 
colors. 


From Colored Woolen Goods —• 

Alternate washings with water, and with more 
or less Dilute Chlorine Water, according to the 


colors. 





94 


From Silks. 

Alternate washings with water, and with more 
or less Dilute Chlorine Water, according to the 
colors. 


LIME, LYE, AND ALKALIES. 


From Linen — 

Simply wash with water. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

Drop Dilute Nitric Acid upon it. The stain, 
previously moistened, can be rubbed off with the 
finger. 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 


Drop Dilute Nitric Acid upon it. The stain, 






95 


previously moistened, can be rubbed oft with the 
finger. 


From Silks — 

Drop Dilute Nitric Acid upon it. The stain, 
previously moistened, can be rubbed off with the 
finger. 


COAL TAR AND WAGON GREASE. 


From Linen — 

Soap, Oil of Turpentine, alternating with a 
stream of water. 


From Colored Cotton Goods — 

Rub with Lard, then Soap it well. After a 
time wash alternately with Water and Turpentine. 






96 


From Colored Woolen Goods — 

Hub with Lard, then Soap it well. After a 
time wash alternately with Water and turpentine. 


From Silks — 

Bub with Lard, then Soap it well. After a 
time wash alternately with Water and Benzine. 
The water must fall on it from some height. 


ACIDS. 


Eed Acid stains are destroyed by Ammonia, 
followed by thorough washing with water. Brown 
stains of Acid are permanent. 





97 


With the foregoing information, a few chemicals 
and a good deal of care and patience, any one may 
set up a chemical cleaning establishment. 

Great pains must be taken where Benzine and 
Ether are used to avoid their taking fire. The 
vapor, mixed with air, is highly explosive. 

Muster Zeit. 





or 


MEMORANDA. 










98 


MEMORANDA. 



100 


MEMORANDA. 



































■> i-wv 


1 


. ■ 








